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perpetuating a surfing myth

take a close look

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possum ..

and friends in need

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cyclone oma

Oma has been forecast to throw a u-turn and loiter in the Coral Sea

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our surfing heritage: the uncomfortable truth

the shame we must bear

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life is a shift

the white towel

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mike doyle – why we liked him

.. thanks for the attitude

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good smoke

.. and brothers

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Where once were so many.

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for Anna

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vic hogan .. justly remembered

with george bernard shaw and jack london for company

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surfers are subtle seducers

a messed up psychology

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col collyer ..

.. he has photos

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earlier (australian) days


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who let this happen?

"Once a hotspot for keen surfers, the small beachside suburb of Avalon is now home to a swelling group of young creatives raising their kids away from the rat-race of Sydney."

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done with debbie, now following penny

updated 8 jan

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the next headland

planned publication 2019

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what bondi called you

the early collection

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scott dillon …

... quietened at last.

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the plan …

.. and the stool-pigeon

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no apologies

a riff

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caught speeding …

and the river Ganges

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writing and reading

‘What is written without effort


in general

read without pleasure.’

Dr. Samuel Johnson.

how to behave in the company of a surfing legend

etiquette, out of the surf.

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the leach

The litter of love ...

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bondi forever: the documentary

... and it's all down to TJ

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