play the surfer, anywhere
You only own a wave when you're on it, like you only own the air when you breathe it.
Posts by peterbowes
Sep 25
7 Comments
bob barrett, robert g barrett, author..
Big Unit Bob was attracted to Handsome Bill, because Handsome Bill attracted many, many lovely women
dear suburbia reviewed, by steve shearer.
Like all other surf films of the modern Era, the brown man of the third world is treated like an exotic and warm visual prop.
tracks magazine. we engage the writers. october 12 issue.
we'll have 'em all, one by one. Just for fun.
how to dominate in the surf, just naturally
men who have been world champions walk the streets; they can be trailed through woolworths, their trolleys eyed.
how to be a prince of men amongst a kingdom of kooks
- or how to be a leader in the line-up
leg ropes, how they betrayed us.
Line up the last 35,000 surfers who threw their money at suspect charter-boat operators working western Sumatra - bring them in
fragments of a book. the attack.
His warm blood bubbled away down his face and into his gasping mouth.
fragments of a book – travelling with an australian
The blokes looked pretty ripped come to think about it
steve shearer, the hunt for lobster
The two basic rules of surfing are that - you have to be on a wave - you have to be on your feet.
alex leonard,his floater, his pink rashie.
what we don't need to see is the dance floor kit in the water.
the late nights
We would sit together in the back room, just the two of us, talking about Eternity
jordy smith cutting back
It doesn't matter who is who on top of the board these days, they all want to rip off one of these dis-functional showboat spraytop finpopping back-sliding cutbacks.
fragments of a book. hobbs and raffan.
Most days Hobbs and his mate Raffan sat idle on the front porch until one of them decided to start drinking.
north haven, stings like a bee.
You remember how Socrates bought it, the hemlock - the creeping cold. Some books a man shouldn't read.
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