Not enough is known about this particular manoeuvre and you know why .. ? It’s the sluggoes. This we know because we have read the psychology. It’s a self-administered test that you can do right now if you look at the pic again.
You go straight to the sluggoes don’t you, like a fashion queen at a frock show. Then you dunk the whole shot.
This is not the sign of a deep thinker.
This fellow is Bob Cooper, Captain Strangeman of 1960. That’s when he came out here with Big Wednesday. Bob C is doing a simple nose-ride on a clean little wave and the only two things that distinguish him from a bloke looking at shoes through a shop window are the slight forward adjustment of his left hand – for a little more weight distribution up front – and the compressed water squirt from underneath his board.
What he’s got here is an accelerated stall. He’s hit the sacred spot that is the equilibrium of wave speed and board speed, matched them.
Plenty of time now to look around, feel the breeze.
– where’s the problem?