Mick McMahon | petebowes.com

Dec 7

surfing archetypes – the tradesman’s lunching hour

Then it's a pity for the poor sod who thinks that he can preserve his spot in the line-up when the working men arrive and paddle over and around and through him. They swarm like ants and feed like sharks, and his day is over.

a lost life

She was a small and beautiful girl, a capricious and effervescent youngster whose light shone bright at Bondi - her shining beacons were of brightness and naivety