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Posts tagged ‘Everest’

this is how some sessions begin in the carpark

Fragile boards are destroyed in an instant. Some surfers shred all the skin off their hands as they grab at anything that might steady their uncontrolled tumbling amongst the sharp edged stones.
This is The Fear.

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I caught a ten-foot wave this morning, what else matters?

Today, June 14, 2012. Wait for the magazines.

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ed reid, remembered

Bill Tilman was a knuckled down kind of man with a gouged out architrave of a forehead that looked lined like an in-coming groundswell, he sucked a pipe that would have satisfied a room full of potheads and he washed as insincerely as does any Englishman in the tropics.

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