the surfer’s nightmare
It’s two o clock in the morning and a little sleep apnea kicks in and you don’t know it but your breathing is getting ragged .. and in a little while the adenoids do a complete clog-up and all incoming and outgoing breath is withheld.
Just for a couple of seconds, maybe ten? That’s when the dream kicks in, which is really a vivid full colour nightmare and I’m swimming out in water two foot deep and looking up at a wave so seriously deadly, so impossibly thick, so high, so purposeful I know it’s going to be the end of me when it finally crushes down and buries me forever.
Tim Bonython has the same nightmares, well maybe because he photographs blokes living it and he must know that like all things imagined, the reality is worse.
Pic lifted from Swellnet
petebowes.com 
How many times in a hold down have we thought we were a gonna !!