the years behind us ..
Born in 1944 .. gone for all money but home to a priceless album of memories. Not that anyone these days is interested but that’s what makes them precious .. these recollections. So many discoveries, point breaks, beach breaks, river mouths – all but empty then but for a few, and those few who welcomed us visitors, happy to see us enjoying their spots. Inviting us into their homes, their waves, sitting us down for dinner.
Those days.
Gone now.
Expect maybe for Ballina, where the old ways survive, where old men remember and young men give you a nod when they rush past you on their way back out.
Only a surfer knows the feeling.
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petebowes.com 
Pete, there can’t be many left who have had those priceless surfing experiences you’ve had … and there certainly isn’t anyone who has been able to share them with the great skill and good humour that you have.
Thanks Noel,
1947 vintage here. Today I stood on a spot at the beach where 62 years ago I had an argument with a mate who had said one day surfboards could come with sails. I told him he was dreaming. I remember this vividly as I watched a guy on a cut down electric motor-driven ironing board catch five waves (swells?) in as many minutes from way, way out back