Well, here we are … 2022 done, 2023 tomorrow.
1,031 posts done since 2010, many of them lifted from Realsurf, more from Kurungabaa, five books produced despite the language and brutal subjects. Readers come and go. Times change. Surfers aged twenty in ‘64 approach 79 in ‘23.
Old friends in the earth, old places overcome, gravel roads now highways and everybody surfs.
But it’s all good because riding a wave is about the best thing a man or woman can do.
Happy New Year, and always pray for surf.